It became a disease more than 25 years ago and there is no cure. When I discovered the wind problem, I took up fclass to try to learn about it. Some would not call that long range, but I think 300 is a long shot under field conditions.įor this work, your m17, a m70, or a rem 700 or mauser 98 are adequately accurate.Īnd they function reliably in the dust etc.īob, your questions are all valid, and I asked some of them of the o.p. Now I use that rifle zeroed at 300 yds and point blank to 350, out to 400 yds with a backline hold at 400, and then only aim on fur, doing no sight adjustments, and only then with a good rest. With sight settings stuck on the butt, I could wind the elevation to the required setting quite accurately.ĭoing this, it became apparent that wind deflection was now the issue.Ī wind measuring device seemed the answer, but guess what - it inly tells you what the wind is where you are, and not all the rest of the distance to the target.Įven with that cartridge, and limiting shots to a max of 600 yds, the wind can easily blow a bullet clean off a goat or deer.Ī clean miss can be accepted, but a wounding shot cannot, particularly when energy levels have significantly dropped off.Īlso, getting into a sufficiently stable position to make such shots in the field is not always possible. That was overcome by buying a range finder. Then came the difficulty of judging range.
Virtually no bullet that performs at close range has a high b.c. The first thing I found was that at those speeds getting a bullet to perform terminally at close range and long range was very difficult. I built my 7mmstw to explore some of them. to get up to spec.Ĭlick to expand.bob, your questions are all valid, and I asked some of them of the o.p. The cheapest action to do this work to is the rem 700, and to buy one and do the work will cost as much as a bat, stolle, or nesika bay. To get a good trigger to fit a p14/m17 might not be easy.Ī set of scope bases with 20moa or other taper must be fitted true and straight so that the scope adjustments are as central as possible for most use. this does not include timney or the likes. You will need to shorten the locktime, and add a really good trigger. The thread hole must be central to the bolthole, and the threads single point chased out to hold a correctly fitted barrel dead true. The front of the action must be square to the bolthole, and the recoil lug flat and square to the bolthole. The locking lug recesses must be square to the bolthole, and the lugs themselves square to the bolt to bear evenly. Then the bolt must be straight, and by the time you do this work, you will have to bush the bolt to get minimal clearance in the hole. The bolt should have minimal clearance in the bolthole.you will have to true the bolthole and drill it to be dead straight. The things to consider when chasing accuracy are barrels, bedding, stocks, triggers, and actions.Īs you mentioned actions, the others will not be discussed.įor a rifle to be as accurate as possible the action must have an absolutely flat bedding area, and the bolthole must be absolutely parallel to this. a 1" at 100 rifle will mostly shoot bigger than 10" at 1000. You need to be able to access bullets for the job in the calibre you choose.ġ moa is 1" at 100 yds, but 10" at 1000 yds.īut id does not go like that. If big game, you need a powerful enough cartridge to deliver required energy at the long range. First of all, what do you mean by long range?
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